What is Polybutylene?
Polybutylene is a form of plastic resin
that was used extensively in the manufacture of water supply
piping from 1978 until 1995. Due to the low cost of the material
and ease of installation, polybutylene piping systems were
viewed as "the pipe of the future" and were used as a substitute
for traditional copper piping. It is most commonly found in the
"Sun Belt" where residential construction was heavy through the
1980's and early-to-mid 90's, but it is also very common in the
Mid Atlantic and Northwest Pacific states.
These are
typically gray or white in color with a dull finish. Most are
shown with pipe attached. Figure (4) is a new fitting.
The piping
systems were used for underground water mains and as interior
water distribution piping. Industry experts believe it was
installed in at least 6 million homes, and some experts indicate
it may have been used in as many as 10 million homes. Most
probably, the piping was installed in about one in every four or
five homes built during the years in which the pipe was
manufactured.
How to Tell If You Have Poly
Exterior - Polybutylene underground water mains are usually
blue, but may be gray or black (do not confuse black poly with
polyethelene pipe). It is usually 1/2" or 1" in diameter, and it
may be found entering your home through the basement wall or
floor, concrete slab or coming up through your crawlspace;
frequently it enters the home near the water heater. Your main
shutoff valve is attached to the end of the water main. Also,
you should check at the water meter that is located at the
street, near the city water main. It is wise to check at both
ends of the pipe because we have found cases where copper pipe
enters the home, and poly pipe is at the water meter. Obviously,
both pipes were used and connected somewhere underground.
Interior - Polybutylene used inside your
home can be found near the water heater, running across the
ceiling in unfinished basements, and coming out of the walls to
feed sinks and toilets. Warning: In some regions of the country
plumbers used copper "stub outs" where the pipe exits a wall to
feed a fixture, so seeing copper here does not mean that you do
not have poly.
See the photos below of polybutylene pipes
and fittings.
Will the Pipes Fail?
While scientific evidence is scarce, it is believed that
oxidants in the public water supplies, such as chlorine, react
with the polybutylene piping and acetal fittings causing them to
scale and flake and become brittle. Micro-fractures result, and
the basic structural integrity of the system is reduced. Thus,
the system becomes weak and may fail without warning causing
damage to the building structure and personal property. It is
believed that other factors may also contribute to the failure
of polybutylene systems, such as improper installation, but it
is virtually impossible to detect installation problems
throughout an entire system.
Throughout the 1980's lawsuits were filed
complaining of allegedly defective manufacturing and defective
installation causing hundreds of millions of dollars in damages.
Although the manufacturers have never admitted that poly is
defective, they have agreed to fund the Class Action settlement
with an initial and minimum amount of $950 million. You'll have
to contact the appropriate settlement claim company to find out
if you qualify under this settlement.
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ABS Pipe |
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What is
ABS pipe? |
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ABS pipe is rigid
plastic pipe used to run waste drains for sinks,
tubs, showers, toilet, and washing machines. It is
also used to run vent stacks for waste drains. It
is distinguishable from typical PVC pipe by it black
color and is often referred to as "black PVC".
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The
potential problem with ABS pipe... |
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Five of the
manufacturers of ABS pipe settled a class action law
suit filed against them for problems with pipe
manufactured between 1984 and 1990. The defective
pipe tends to crack circumferentially at or near a
joint or fitting. The cracking can potentially
create leaks and cause water damage to the structure
as well as promote the growth of
mold.
Not all
of the pipe manufactured between 1984 and 1990 has
proven to be problematic and it is possible that pipe
manufactured during this time frame by the involved
manufacturers is performing as designed. Below is a list
of the manufacture's named in the suit and the time
frames over which they may have produced questionable
ABS piping... |
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Apache: Between November 1984 and December
1990 |
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Centaur: Between January 1985 through
September 1985 |
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Gable: Between November 1984 and December
1990 |
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Phoenix: Between November 1985 through
September 1986 |
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Polaris: Between January 1984 and December
1990 |
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How can I
tell if I have potentially defective ABS pipe? |
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If your house was built
before 1984 you will not have the questionable ABS
pipe. If your house was built anytime after 1984
look for rigid black plastic drain piping.
(Remember that existing stocks of pipe might have
been used even after 1990). This pipe will be one
and a quarter inches or more in diameter. ABS pipe
has markings on the outside of the pipe that include
the name of the manufacturer, references to code
specifications, and a date code.
Here is
where to look:
- Attic:
The most likely place to find a long enough
length of pipe to get the required data from is
in the attic.
- Under sinks:
The piece of pipe coming from the of the wall
that connects to the sink trap may be ABS. If
the pipe looks molded or is threaded, then it is
not ABS pipe.
- Crawl space:
If your house has a crawl space under it, then
you may find ABS pipe underneath the house.
While
your looking in these areas be sure to check for
circumferentially cracked pipe near any fitting or
joints that you may find and write down any
manufacturer's data written on the pipe. Below are some
examples of the data your looking for from the involved
manufacturers.
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What can I
do if I have (or have had) a problem? |
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You can get
reimbursement for repairs to defective piping as
part of the settlement in the class action law
suit. In order to qualify your piping must be
cracked circumferentially adjacent to a fitting or
joint, have leaked, and been manufactured by one of
the named defendants during the relevant time frame.
If you
can document previously made repairs you may also be
able to get reimbursement. You can use the claim form
below to get the process started. |
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absclaim.pdf |
Water Heaters:
The State of California requires that all water
heaters in our area be anchored or strapped to resist movement
during an earthquake. This can be accomplished by installing any
of the over-the-counter products especially made for restraining
water heaters (example 1) or you can make your own out of a
heavy-duty metal strap material (Example 2). It is required that
at least two restraints are used, with one in the upper
one-third and one in the lower one-third of the water heater.
Fasten of the anchor or strap to the structure, use a screw not
less than 1/4" diameter with a minimum penetration of 1 1/2"
into a wood stud of the wall, with a washer between the head of
the screw and the restraint. Below are examples of acceptable
methods for restraining a water heater. Note: A plumbing and gas
permit is required any time a water heater is replaced.
Example 1
These types of restraints are over-the-counter
products soldat your local hardware store.
Drill pilots on center line of stud, insert
screws through punched holes in strap. Use washers.
The lower strap must be a minimum of 4" above
the control unit.
This 18" stand is required for heaters installed
in a garage location.
Example 2
Minimum 22 Gauge metal strap material installed
within the top 1/3 of the heater and the bottom 1/3 of the
heater.
Drill pilots on center line of stud, insert
screws through punched holes in strap.
Use minimum 1/4" screws with minimum 11/2"
penetration. Use washers.
The lower strap must be a minimum of 4" above
the control unit.
This 18" stand is required for heaters installed
in a garage location.
Well Information
Properly constructed private water supply systems require
little routine maintenance. These simple steps will help protect
your system and investment.
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Always use licensed or certified water well drillers and
pump installers when a well is constructed, a pump is
installed or the system is serviced.
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An annual well maintenance check, including a bacterial
test, is recommended. Any source of drinking water should be
checked any time there is a change in taste, odor or
appearance, or anytime a water supply system is serviced.
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Keep hazardous chemicals, such as paint, fertilizer,
pesticides, and motor oil far away from your well.
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Periodically check the well cover or well cap on top of
the casing (well) to ensure it is in good repair.
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Always maintain proper separation between your well and
buildings, waste systems or chemical storage facilities.
Your professional contractor knows the rules.
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Don't allow back-siphonage. When mixing pesticides,
fertilizers or other chemicals, don't put the hose inside
the tank or container.
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When landscaping, keep the top of your well at least one
foot above the ground. Slope the ground away from your well
for proper drainage.
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Take care in working or mowing around your well. A
damaged casing could jeopardize the sanitary protection of
your well. Don't pile snow, leaves, or other materials
around your well.
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Keep your well records in a safe place. These include
the construction report, as well as annual water well system
maintenance and water testing results.
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Be aware of changes in your well, the area around your
well, or the water it provides.
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When your well has come to the end of its serviceable
life (usually more than 20 years), have your qualified water
well contractor properly decommission your well after
constructing your new system.
